如果有一种全球通用的语言，那一定是“茶”。无论你来自哪里，我们都可以因为一杯茶，共享一段美好的时光。4月19日晚，来自五湖四海的朋友相聚在被称为法国“孔子学院”的昆明“法语联盟”，觥筹交错，茶香四溢，伴着优美的中西和乐，共同度过了一个美妙的夜晚，普洱茶就这样曼妙地打开了...
If there is an universal language, that must be tea. No matter where are you from, we can sit down and share some sweet tea time. On April 19th, we gathered together in Kunming Alliance Francaise, accompanied by romantic wine and aromatic tea, listened to beautiful the western and Chinese traditional tutti, spent a wonderful and pleasant evening, we all astonished that how interesting and romantic to enjoy pu-erh tea this way!
此次活动是由“葡言茶语”全程策划，昆明法语联盟，六山贺开古茶庄园，杰曦法国葡萄酒，普洱杂志联合承办的“葡萄酒对话普洱茶”的主题系列开幕式。通过每月一次的主题论坛，开展普洱茶与葡萄酒的深入对话，从而找到更多普洱茶行业的参考标准和品牌推广途径。
Through the series of conferences monthly hosted by Discovercha together with Kunming Alliance Francais, Hekai Ancient Tea Estate, JieXi French Wine and Pu-erh Magazine, we aim to popularize French wine culture, and most importantly to seek for some solutions or standards which will work on Pu-erh industry.
葡言茶语
当一些野生的水果自然成熟，落地发酵，发生了美妙的变化，自然的酿制成了天然的美酒，于是，人类发明了酒。最早的酿酒坊可以追逐到6000多年前的古亚美尼亚，之后逐渐了有葡萄酒。到了古埃及时代，法老文明的兴起，因为葡萄酒的颜色与人类的血液及其相似，被用于祭祀，这样的习惯沿袭到古希腊和犹太教中。到了古罗马时代，帝国的征战和扩张，领土几乎覆盖了整个欧洲，所到之处，也是葡萄酒的所及之地，包括今天大家耳熟能详的法国、德国、意大利、西班牙、葡萄牙等。经过漫长的黑暗中世纪，1492年，哥伦布开启了航海环球旅行，意外地发现了美洲，葡萄酒因此也被跨越海洋带到了美洲。随后的荷兰、法国的殖民扩张，将葡萄酒随之带到了北美，南非，澳大利亚，新西兰等，葡萄酒从此在全世界开花结果，散发着诱人的酒香。
Imagine how wine was invented? When some wild fruits fell off onto the ground, and got fermented, that became the initial wine. The earliest winery can be dated back to 6000 years ago in ancient Armenia, then gradually, wine was invented. In ancient Egypt era, because of the risen of Pharaoh, wine was used as the important sacrament due to its resemblance to blood. Such customs were inherited through ancient Greek, used in Judaism as well. However, wine was mainly spread along Mediterranean sea until during the Ancient Rome time, with the expansion and colony of Rome Empire, wine reached everywhere in Europe, including France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Portugal, etc. During the dark Middle Ages, wine making was perfected as well because of development and expansion of church. In 1492, Columbus discovered the New World, therefore, wine landed in other new continent. With European further colony and conquest, wine reached further south America, north America, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, almost reached each corner of the world, conquered the whole earth.
法语联盟
这故事是不是似曾相识呢？如果说葡萄酒扮演的是征服者的角色，随着帝国的变化和世界版图的改变而改变，那么，茶则更多的是扮演了和平使者的角色。“神农尝百草，日遇七十二毒，得一荼而解之。”茶，因其药用功能被发现，被利用，后被用于祭祀，又因佛家、道家的发展而发展，兴盛而繁荣。到了唐代，诞生了伟大的茶圣陆羽，成书《茶经》，流传千史；大唐茶诗，百余文人儒士共筑繁荣；茶马古道将茶传入边疆少数民族；龙团凤饼，茶文化登峰造极，宋氏王朝成也败也。宋时，荣西禅师两渡中国，将茶带入日本，完成了《吃茶养生记》，成就了日本茶道。13世纪，沿着茶马古道大篷车，茶传入蒙古，后逐渐传入俄罗斯。大航海时代，沿着海上丝绸之路，绕过好望角，葡萄牙和荷兰将茶引入欧洲，成为时尚，葡萄牙公主凯瑟琳下嫁英王查理二世，英式下午茶因此而成名。东印度公司，更是为英国创造了巨额财富，缔造了日不落帝国。殖民当然也不总是一帆风顺的，波士顿倾茶事件拉响了美国独立战争的号角。英国因为对茶之瘾，白银外流，财政赤字，于是向中国倾销鸦片，几十年后，国人终于觉醒，发动了虎门销烟，因此点燃了第一次鸦片战争的战火，从此拉开了中国的近代史。茶，从另外一个方面改变了全世界的版图！
Does it sound similar? If wine played the role of conqueror, then tea played the role of peace messenger. Tea was found and used as medicine initially, then used in sacrifice later too. It fluctuated with the development of Buddhism and Zen. Until Tang dynasty, the birth of tea saint Luyu achieved the great Tea Classics, widely spread even now. The prosperous and stable economy in Tang had bloomed the tea culture, gave birth to lots of tea literature and poets, tea was brought to border minorities along the Ancient Tea Horse Road at that time, changed their life. After that, tea culture in Song dynasty reached its heyday, whisked tea and tea drama were the most popular tea among royals and nobles classes. Meanwhile, Eisai came to China twice, brought tea and tea seeds to Japan, started Japanese tea and promoted Song whisked tea. During the Maritime Navigation Era, tea was imported by Portugal and Holland into Europe, explored its new land. Since Princess Catherine married CharlieⅡ, had popularized the afternoon tea in whole Britain. The British East Indian company earned immense amount of fortune by trading tea and other eastern goods, assisted in building the Empire of United Kingdom. Tea is tender and gentle, but it can cause evil and ambition. In order to fight again UK’s high tax and manipulation, the Boston Tea Party throw the Britain’s tea away into the bay, fueling the American Revolution. On the other side, Britain became addicted to tea, spent vast money on Chinese tea, in order to balance the finance deficit, they successfully dumped opium into China. In decades of years, finally, China said no, and burnt the opium, therefore caused the first Opium War(1840 - 1842), China entered modern history. It’s no hard to see , tea magically changed the world.
六大茶山
无独有偶，茶与酒都承载了东西方的文化、艺术、哲学思想，一盏茶是天地的精华，一辈酒是西方的智慧。它们都是上天赐予人类的礼物，经过人类之手，制成了最美的甘露和佳酿。哲学家柏拉图、亚里士多德、伏尔泰都曾是葡萄酒的狂热爱好者，美酒为其酝酿了杰出的哲学思想，狄德罗的《我饮故我在》成为今天最畅销的葡萄酒哲学向导；在中国，不管琴棋书画诗歌茶，还是柴米油盐酱醋茶，茶都是生活中非常重要的一部分，承载了儒释道的东方哲学。我们需要时刻保持空杯的状态，斟上1/4到1/3的葡萄酒于酒杯，才能更好的享受其芬芳和甘醇；也要懂得拿起、放下的生活智慧，活在当下，才不负人生。
Coincidently, both wine and tea carry the cultures, arts and philosophies, a cup of tea is the essence of nature, and a glass of wine is the wisdom of the west. They are the best gifts, granted by nature, through mankind, turn into the best liquid for us. Philosophers like Plato, Aristotle, Voltaire are wine lovers, I drink therefore I am: A Philosopher's Guide to Wine wrote by Roger Scruton, is a great book inspires many drinkers. Wine indeed gives birth to abundant of philosophy thoughts, so does tea. In China, tea can be elegant as guqin, chess, calligraphy, painting, poetry, music; tea can be ordinary as firewood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, it plays the most important part to us, carries the eastern wisdom of Confucianism, Zen and Buddhism. It is necessary that we keep humble, so we are able to enjoy the life and accept more, just like that when we take 1/4 to 1/3 glass of wine to enjoy it better. It is necessary that we know how to accept some imperfection and let it go. Enjoy the moment is the wise choice.
杰曦法国
1855年，为了能在巴黎世界博览会上向世界弘扬法国优质的葡萄酒，拿破仑三世下令对波尔多酒庄进行分级。于是肩负皇命的波尔多商会委托波尔多经纪人联合会遴选出最好的葡萄酒。经纪人联合会将最好的酒庄分为了五个等级，列出名单上呈。由此诞生了历史上首个被公认的葡萄酒庄分级制度。作为法国葡萄酒核心产区的地位，受益于此的这些波尔多名庄h和法国葡萄酒也因此而享誉全世界。
In 1855, Napoleon III, emperor of France, decided to throw a Universal Exposition in Paris, and wanted to represent French fine wine. He required Bordeaux's Chamber of Commerce to arrange an exhibit. The members of the chamber knew a hornet's nest when they saw one, so they passed the buck. They agreed, according to their records, to present "all our crus classés, up to the fifth-growths," but asked the Syndicat of Courtiers, an organization of wine merchants, to draw up "an exact and complete list of all the red wines of the Gironde that specifies in which class they belong." Curiously, all of the courtiers' selections came from the Médoc, with the single exception of Haut-Brion (they also ranked the sweet white wines of Sauternes and Barsac). However, 1855 classification has leaded French wine world widely famous and popular.
茶是最好的老师
如果将目光移向中国的西南边陲云南，普洱茶其实早在其100多年前，已经在十二版纳区域形成了经济、文化中心，“改土归流”的成功，1729年（清雍正七年）普洱府的成立，倚傍的兴盛，易武的崛起，普洱茶沿着茶马古道，远销海外。嘉庆四年《滇海虞衡志》：“普茶名重于天下，此滇之所以为产而资利赖者也。出普洱属六茶山：一曰攸乐，二曰革登，三曰倚邦，四曰莽枝，五曰蛮砖，六曰慢撒，周八百里，入山作茶者数十万人。茶客收买，运于各处。每盈路，可谓大钱粮矣。”
In south-west China, pu-erh tea had gained its fame even 100 earlier than that, established the center of economy and culture. In 1729(the 7th year of Yongzheng throne), because of the successful reform, the establishment of Pu’er government(in current Ning’Er county), later on the prosperity of Yibang and Yiwu(Old name is Mansha), pu-erh tea was taken along the Ancient Tea Horse Road, transported abroad already. Dian Hai Yu Hen Zhi(Yunnan chorography wrote by Tancui in 1798, the 4th year of JiaQing emperor), recorded that pu’erh tea was famous, therefore Yunnan businessmen made lots of fortune. There were six mountains produced pu’erh tea, which were Youle, Gedeng, Yibang, Mangzhi, Mansha, and ten thousand of people flooded into mountain from the surrounding 800 miles. They purchased tea, and sold in other cities, as a result, earned big money.
同行柯锋先生分享“茶园分级体系”
200多年过去了，经历了历史的滚滚红尘，法国葡萄酒成为风靡全世界高品质葡萄酒的代言人，而普洱茶，经历了跌宕起伏的年代，虽然贵为国饮，但其整个产业化生产才刚刚起步。正如沙龙现场的朋友反映的一样，我们连好茶的标准是什么，都没有办法简单回答，“古树”、“纯料”、“单株”“老茶”、“冰岛”、“老班章”等满天飞却真假难辨，最直接的原因就是标准的缺失和监管的低效，才导致地理标志产品规则被忽视，或者被滥用，从而使得市场混乱，三无产品横行，普洱茶的品牌的诚信度和公信力亟待提高。
However, over 200 hundreds of years passed, French wine has definitely conquered the whole world, been granted the crown of best wine, pu-erh tea is nationally popular although, however its industrialized development just started. It is an agreeable truth that pu-erh tea is valuable, worthwhile for collection and investment, but how do we know it is a good cake of tea since the labels are not informative, fake branded teas like ancient tea tree, pure material, single tree, old tea, Bingdao, Laobanzhang, are filled in the market. Due to the lack of concrete standards and efficient supervise, the regulations of Geographic Indication Products do not guarantee anything currently, and that ruins the whole pu-erh industry.
我们热爱中国的国粹普洱茶，我们已经准备好为普洱茶倾注一生。“好茶的标准是什么？”，从这个问题出发，六山努力了17年。我们列出了一系列的主题，通过每月一次主题的深入对话，9月普洱茶法国之行，中法双方代表企业的共同参与，志同道合的同行共同行动，我们相信，在普及葡萄酒文化的同时，也一定可以寻找到更适合普洱茶的标准。
We love pu-erh tea, we are ready to devote the whole life to it. Back to the initial question of what are the standards of good pu-erh tea, we listed the following subjects.Through monthly conference-dialogue wine and tea, including one conference in France in September, both Chinese and French tea companies and organizations participation, and all the individuals and tea companies in common interests take each active role, we believe that, we are able to provide better standards for pu-erh tea and Yunnan tea.
“普洱茶对话葡萄酒”论坛起航了，本系列论坛由杰曦法国葡萄酒引进的来自AOC原产地教皇新堡魅梦干红葡萄酒和六山贺开古茶庄园有机普洱茶全程赞助。伴着书香、茶香和酒香，看似小小的舞台，因为有热爱普洱茶、热爱葡萄酒、热爱中法文化的你们的参与，我们将共筑一个大大的梦想。随着六山贺开古茶庄园即将竣工投产，古茶庄园即将迎来新的篇章。
The Series of Conference are sponsored by les Mementes AOC Chateauneuf du Pape and Hekai Ancient Tea Estate Organic Tea. It might be a small stage, it might be a small dream, with your supporting and attending, together, the dream will be ambitious and come true. We believe that Hekai Ancient Tea Estate will step into another new page soon.
